Château de Beynac with Château de Castelnaud in the background.
The mythical Dordogne region, known as the Land of 1000 Castles, is one of the hidden delights of France. History, nature, the cradle of pre-historic ancestors, regional wine and gastronomy await.
This enchanting region is a natural playground for kids and families with easy hikes, strolls, bike riding and canoeing along the numerous rivers, and the countless magical gardens to explore.
The Golden Triangle
Nestled in the heart of the Dordogne Valley, the Golden Triangle’s three iconic castles offer a spectacular glimpse into France’s medieval past, Château de Beynac, Château de Castelnaud, and Château des Milandes.
Château de Beynac
Towering over the cliffs, Château de Beynac impresses with its austere stone walls and panoramic views of the Dordogne River, once a stronghold of Richard the Lionheart. A message of Richard’s agency over this strategic and imposing bastide can be found in the heart-shaped lock holes throughout the Chateau.
Shasha and her son searching for heart-shaped key holes inside Chateau de Baynac
La Taverne des Remparts is a charming spot for lunch or a refreshing break, located just outside the entrance to the Château at the top of the bastide. Down along the river at the entrance to town, you'll also find a variety of canopied restaurants serving regional favorites, all bustling with a mix of locals and continental travelers enjoying the Dordogne's relaxed rhythm and flavors.
Entrance to Château de Baynac as viewed from La Taverne des Remparts
The walk from the town’s entrance along the river to the Château might be a bit steep and cobbled for some. An alternative route with a clear sign leads to the top entrance of the Château, accessible by car and gently winds through 2 km of fields and farms.
Château de Castelnaud
Château Castelnaud in the mist, photo credit The Guardian
Just across the valley from Château de Beynac stands its historic rival, the formidable Château de Castelnaud. Perched nearly 500 feet above the Dordogne River, this 13th-century fortress offers breathtaking panoramic views and an immersive journey into the region’s medieval past.
Home to the renowned Museum of War in the Middle Ages, the château showcases an extraordinary collection of medieval weaponry and siege machines, making history come vividly to life. From full-scale trebuchets to intricate suits of armor, every detail tells the story of feudal conflict in the Périgord.
Visitors can enjoy engaging, English-friendly tours with themes like “Storming the Castle,” “Blacksmithing,” and “The School of Chivalry”—a favorite for kids. There’s even a fascinating look at “The Virtues and Uses of Medieval Plants.”
Make sure to time your visit to catch a live demonstration of the trebuchet in action.
Interestingly, the engineering knowledge behind these giants of warfare had been lost to time. It wasn’t until the late 1960s and early 1970s that the new owner of Château de Castelnaud collaborated with French engineers to painstakingly recreate these formidable trebuchets from scratch.
Be sure to pause at the château’s entrance and watch the short documentary video. It tells the fascinating story of the team’s discovery of ancient Western and Eastern manuscripts, along with the persistence, setbacks, and breakthroughs that ultimately unlocked the secrets of this lost technology.
Dining in Castelnaud
Château de Castelnaud recently opened a delightful family-friendly restaurant which commands sweeping views of the valley below. It’s a wonderful place for a delicious lunch after exploring the castle and contemplating the opposing army approaching below.
Walking down from the Château a few meters, look for a small sign on the left to locate the restaurant's entrance. Several other inviting cafes can be found as you walk through the small village a few meters below the Château's entrance and ticket booth.
Exploring Château des Milandes
Just down the road from Castlenaud, Château des Milandes offers a more romantic allure—famed as the home of entertainer and Resistance hero Josephine Baker, this Renaissance-style château charms with its manicured gardens.
The Château des Milandes was originally occupied as a manor house in the commune of Castelnaud-la-Chapelle. Built by François de Caumont 1489, it is an excellent example of Renaissance architecture.
He sought to make the castle romantic for his wife, Claude de Cardaillac bringing rooms alive with more light. With the beautiful stained-glass in its mullioned windows, and rooms opening onto the valley, it continues to exude its inviting and feminine essence.
Together, these three castles create an unforgettable journey through history, heroism, and architectural splendor.
Canoeing the Dordogne past La Roque Gageac
I hope you enjoyed this first blog in my Dordogne, France travel series with more to come. Please feel free to comment, sharing your favorite castles and if you would like more information about the area.
Please subscribe to my newsletter to receive my next post on the enchanting 4- and 5-star boutique accommodations in the area, followed by recommendations for the best purveyors of gentle canoeing, bike riding, hiking and touring the region.
Travel Planning with Trouver
As a Fora Travel certified travel advisor and IATA registration, I’d be delighted to help you plan your own unforgettable journey. Let me share some of our favorite places and what we've discovered on our travels through France while sourcing original pieces for import to the United States.
Feel free to reach out anytime at shasha@TrouverAntiques—let’s start planning something beautiful together.
Why Trouver | French Antiques and Travel
With our deep knowledge and experience of France’s most charming and hidden corners, Trouver creates bespoke travel itineraries and handle all your bookings.
Trouver is a specialist in curating a discerning collection of antique and home décor items, all the highest quality, affordably well-priced, and one-of-a-kind pieces with an intriguing and storied past. When you shop from Trouver, you will find something just for you that expresses your beautiful style and your creation of home.